收藏中有 篇文章 “Banff & Jasper: 2020”

Our week-long roadtrip to Jasper and Banff National Parks in July 2020, right after B.C. transitioned to Phase 3. We drove a total of 3,100 km in 9 days, and visited touristy spots and less-traveled trails in the two national parks. There was also day trips to Kootenay and Yoho National Parks, as well as to the great city of Calgary.

Obligatory Photos in Banff

August 31, 2020 • 11:36 PM

Just wrapping up the collection here.

Downtown Banff.

Banff Viewpoint. A quick drive zigzagging up Cascade Mountain only minutes from the town of Banff.

Hoodoos Lookout (hoodoos on the lower left, Mount Rundle in the back).

Hoodoos Lookout.

Banff Springs Hotel (Fairmont). This shot is (obviously) taken from across Bow River.

Lake Minnewanka.

Overlooking the town of Banff and the surrounding valleys and mountains.

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Emerald Lake

July 26, 2020 • 12:48 PM

July 9th — We hit every green light during our time in Banff, and took Johnston Canyon off the list because of its closure. For the extra day, we drove back to B.C. and into Yoho National Park for the day.

The mirror-like water of Emerald Lake

The mirror-like water of Emerald Lake.

Emerald Lake is a remote and peaceful lake in Yoho. The entire loop trail along the lake shore was short of 6 km, and barely had any elevation change. The water was mirror-like as there was no wind for the day (it only drizzled for an hour or two).

Emerald Lake from the fan of the inlet river

Emerald Lake from the fan of the inlet river.

On the other side of the lake was the fan of the inlet river. The entire hike was very easy and took less than two hours to complete. It was a nice rest before we head up to Stanley Glacier the next day.

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Stanley Glacier

July 26, 2020 • 12:39 PM

July 10th — Stanley Glacier is a hiking trail in Kootenay National Park in B.C., just half an hour drive from Banff.

The beginning of the trail was very quiet — so quiet that we clapped our hands and chatted loudly to make sure not to make wildlife encounters. But soon there are people getting down, and we run into more groups along the trail.

The creek of the glacier valley.

After a mild but steady ascent, vegetations subsided. The path transformed from dirt road to rock piles. This was where a lot of groups were taking a rest, and some made it their point of return — you could get a great view of Stanley Glacier already anyway.

But we trudged forward. The tiny rocks made for very slippery terrains, and the slope did not help at all. The second half of the trail was also where the slope picked up; what had been an easy walk in the park became proper trail hiking.

MX hiking up Stanley Glacier.

After about an hour and half since the end of the woods, we reached the top of the trail — a lookout in the middle of the glacier valley. From there, we were able to see the woods that we came from.

Overlooking Stanley Glacier at the end of the trail.

The maps on All Trails said we could make a loop and head back from the other side of the valley, but we were stopped by a creek along the way. Considering that the views were not much different, we just backed up the same way. We met a dozen groups hiking uphills on our way down, and the parking lot had been full by the time we got down.

With 600 m ascent and 11 km round-trip distance, Stanley Glacier Trail is a proper day hike destination. The second part of the trail proved more challenging, but totally doable with care. The reward is a stunning view into the glacier that you don’t really see much elsewhere.

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Moraine Lake & Lake Louise

July 13, 2020 • 7:15 PM

Moraine Lake.

Lake Louise taken from the shore.

Lake Louise, taken from Fairview Lookout.

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Icefields Parkway

July 12, 2020 • 11:11 PM

Icefields Parkway

Icefields Parkway, about 40km north of Saskatchewan River Crossing.

Icefields Parkway is the 268km highway that connects Banff and Jasper National Parks. This shot was taken at the lookout about 40km north of Saskatchewan River Crossing on the Parkway.

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Athabasca Falls & Sunwapta Falls

July 11, 2020 • 10:06 PM

Speaking of the falls, here’s Jasper’s famous Athabasca Falls —

Athabasca Falls. Shot on iPhone XS with Spectre app.

And here’s Sunwapta Falls, not as famous but the island and the trees make for interesting composition and are seen a lot on Instagram —

Sunwapta Falls. Shot on iPhone XS with Spectre app.

The brown patches of pine trees are actually dead. We learned from a local that the trees were killed by a species of beetles from B.C., and they are heading south bound to Banff. The locals are concerned with the dead trees being fire hazards, but nothing was being done by the government. Whatever the beetles don’t kill will thrive in a few years or decades, and nature will run its course of recovery.

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Valley of the Five Lakes

July 11, 2020 • 9:51 PM

… was the first actual hike we took for the trip. 2.5 hours and 6 kilometres long, the trail is exactly what it says it is in the name: it’s a valley, and there are five lakes. The lakes have different depths and display their own distinct hue of turquoise.

The hike was light and easy — no challenging terrains, lots of flats. After a short grind up the valley, there was a sight at every turn. Here’s Third Lake, unfiltered and untouched from my iPhone XS —

Third Lake of the Valley of the Five Lakes

Third Lake.

The hike was short enough that we managed to fit it in before the long drive down Icefields Parkway to Banff. It felt like the dessert of a five course meal: not as magnificent as Maligne Lake and Canyon or the falls, but something quite interesting to remember.

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Maligne Lake

July 10, 2020 • 10:17 PM

Us. © MX.

Parks Canada has placed Red Chairs around national parks and these are one of the many sets.

Maligne Lake was quiet for 6pm in the summer — too quiet. The sun would not set for another four hours; it was still high up, only softened by the clouds. There were patches of brown and crimson among the trees. Dead as they were, the trees made up for the warmth in the scene, balancing out the Red Chairs.

Maligne Lake was our second last stop in Jasper. We hadn’t hiked much; our legs weren’t sore yet. This was as close to vacation vibe as this trip would ever get. It’d be all adventure from here.

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疫情出游有什么不一样

July 9, 2020 • 9:10 PM

出来这两天好几个朋友问着类似的问题——国内的问 “这还敢出来玩?” 在 BC 省的问 “现在还敢去 Alberta?” 出来玩总要有游记,我琢磨了一下不如把疫情对出游的影响集中写在这里,省的之后东一榔头西一棒子写的也不完整。

虽然数据摆在每个人面前都是一样的,但是理解和接受程度见仁见智。现在 BC 省的每日新增病例大概是个位数,可能偶尔能碰到十几二十;Alberta 是一天四十五十。你可以说 Alberta 疫情比 BC 严重四五倍,也可以理解为两个省都得到了有效控制,新增病例数量级相同。

在理性理解之上就是个人做出的一些正确选择了。开车自驾游显然也是低风险的出游方式,飞机是万万不敢坐的。多洗手勤洗手,人多的地方少做停留。那么这次出来玩和平时比有哪些不一样呢?

人少

疫情期间出来玩,人少是肯定的。美加边境关得很严实,就算一周有 20 万人次从美国入境加拿大,这也是往年人流量的 10% 不到,况且绝大部分过境的人都是工作目的(最常见的就是货运司机),并非出门旅游。

从国内来加拿大这边就更不用说了——就算比例再少,庞大的人口总数也会让国内游客构成这里往年的消费主力。今年这些人都进不来,便宜了我们这些在加拿大境内的常住居民。

人少到什么地步呢?我们在 Jasper 的酒店原计划6月30日开门营业,我们7月4日入住。七月一日发邮件说这个酒店推迟了开业时间,把我们 rebook到了隔壁集团下的另一家酒店。显然是客流量比预计的低太多,只好把客人集中一下削减成本。在 Banff 入住的时候和接待处小哥聊天,他说周末其实客房都是订满的(猜测都是卡尔加里来过周末的人),不过周中真的没人住。

我们在 Maligne Lake 这个知名游船景点停留了一个多小时,可以在湖边随意摆弄三脚架也见不到人来打扰。在 Banff 的 Tunnel Mountain 也是。

Maligne Lake。MX 在这里尝试了许久构图和参数组合,阳光来了又走,一个多小时也只遇上了三四组路人。

不开门

疫情期间出来玩的坏处就是有些地方还没开门。比如一些室内的景点如博物馆等还处于关闭状态,这次本来以为能去看看 Banff 的国家公园历史展,结果没开门。想去 Johnston Canyon 爬山结果公路被开辟成了适合 social distancing 的步行和骑车道(也是因为这个热门的 trail 很难做到 social distancing 所以侧面限制人流)——我们12号走开回温哥华,这个公路封闭到13号🤷‍♂️

都很小心

虽然已经喜迎境内八方客,国家公园还有酒店和餐馆都是非常小心的。比如——

  • 酒店客房服务取消,如果需要整理房间,或者需要一些消耗品要自己和前台联系。
  • 酒店的自助早餐和附近的旗下酒店合并(因为人少)并从自助改成了点餐。我们住的 Charltons Banff 早餐自动搭配好,可以选择两个蛋的做法,煎炒煮大概都可以。
  • 泳池、热水池和健身房显然都是不开的。
  • 出入酒店和餐饮场所要回答三连问题:你有没有症状?你过去14天是否在加拿大境外呆过?你是否接触过确诊病例或入境后处于隔离期的人?

除此之外,国家公园也做了一些改变,比如 Banff 镇上的 downtown 区域把行车道改成了步行街,减少人行道上的人流密度;Maligne Canyon 设立了部分单行道避免相向人流接触。

一般来说,街上和山里遇到的路人也都会比较小心,错身而行的时候会尽量保持距离,热门拍照点会保持一定距离等待。


大概就是这样了,希望能给还没出来玩的朋友一些参考。之后几天游记多写写开心的事情,大概就不会触及这个话题了。

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